Narsai David is someone we've always found to be an important person in the Californian culinary scene, was one of the true founders of our California Cuisine - alongside people like Alice Waters and others in the Bay Area. I have fond memories of sipping a 1949 Armagnac brandy with Chef Marc Chayette in Narsai's cool redwood bar. Quite the place, with an incomparable wine list, bar selection of Cognacs and Armagnacs, Sherries, and Ports, great and imaginative cuisine, and incomparable service. As it turns out, one of my dear friends Kurt Grasing, worked with Narsai and now partners with him in Carmel's finest restaurant, Grasing's Coastal Cuisine. (Even better, their award-winning wine lists features some amazing bottles from Narsai's cellar.)
In 1970, Narsai began a catering business. Among his first clients was Bill Graham, the legendary San Francisco rock impresario, for whom Narsai catered events for all major bands including The Rolling Stones. Narsai catered a number of special events, including for the British Royal Family on their visits to San Francisco. In 1972, he opened his restaurant, Narsai's, in the upscale community of Kensington, on the northern tip of Berkeley. The restaurant was described by the New York Times as having one of the finest wine cellars in the world. In 1978, Narsai's Market was opened next door. Narsai's Market closed in 1985, and the restaurant in 1986. They are sadly missed by gourmets everywhere. Mr. David is Food and Wine Editor for CBS in the Bay Area, has a line of gourmet products, Chef Narsai David's Specialty Foods and has a winery that makes a very fine Cabernet, Cuvée Venus, which we are currently offering at Sly's to compliment our fixed price menu featuring Narsai's food.
LIke always the Fixed Price Menu at Sly's is just $35, for threes courses, or $55 for three courses with wine.
Duck Liver Pate --- Narsai’s famous duck liver mousse, in a ramekin with a layer of port aspic. The secret is onions and apples - not to mention butter and cream. A delicious first course.s
Mushroom Soup a la Narsai--The mushrooms soup is quite different - rich and delicious, and made with clam broth. Striking.
Hearts of Romaine in a Citronade Dressing -- A very simple salad - crisp hearts of romaine, with a lemony mustard dressing.
Main Courses
Scallops & Oysters, Mushrooms and Truffle Oil ---scallops and oysters, poached in chardonnay and nutty Amontillado sherry, with thinly sliced white mushrooms, finished with a bit of cream and our Chardonnay butter, with black truffle oil.
Narsai's Assyrian Lamb Leg of lamb here, Narsai most often used rack of lamb. Marinated overnight in pomegranite juice, onions, garlic, and basil. Seared, and roasted medium rare. Red wine sauce.
Served with Azerbaijan pilaf, basmati rice with white sesame seeds and toasted almonds. Vichy carrots - rounds of carrots, slow braised in water and butter. simple and classic.
"Chicken in a Pot" Said to be one of Narsai's personal go-to favorites. An “airline breast” of chicken poached in white wine and our rich chicken broth with fresh farmer’s market fennel, carrots, and tiny boiled potatoes. Not bland - with a few crushed chiles and pickling spice, served in our large pasta bowl.
Desserts
Narsai's culinary repertoire provided us with three really great desserts - in my opinion.
Narsai's Almond cake is one of my favorites - I just love it. The almond cake has a bit of flour, but is mainly almond paste, eggs and butter. The flavor is incredible - we use a local Bakersfield almond paste from the artisans at Mandorli. Served with chantilly and fresh raspberry sauce.
Narsai’s Chocolate Decadence is both! The is probably the first chocolate desert of its kind - many have followed, but we think Narsai's version is one of, if not the, original. This rich little cake was created to make a dessert fit to be served (and stand up) to port wine. It works well. Sinfully delicious. Sly's has port by the glass, and you can have a glass of port as part of Sly's three course dinner with wine for this course.
There are many stories about when and how Crêpes Suzettes were invented - and we won’t join that argument. Suffice to say that the thin, tender pancakes are a classic. Our version is delightfully thin pancakes, with a butter sauce with orange and lemon peel and Grand Marnier liquer. Delicious.
There's a cheese course available with the fixed price menu at Sly's if you like - always with some great cheeses from the experts at C'est Cheese. Kasseri cheese is a sheeps milk cheese from the middle east. Served with cumin and walnuts here. Delicious if you like to finish with a cheese.
And of course, you can always have one of Sly's incredible Grand Mariner Soufflés for a supplement of just $5 with the fixed price menu. One of the best deal's around!